Icaro in Naka-Meguro イカロ、中目黒

As an early birthday dinner for me, we decided to visit an Italian restaurant that’s been on my radar a while.  Icaro has one Michelin star and is conveniently located a short five minute walk from Naka-Meguro station.  It is on the 4th floor of a fairly nondescript building more apt to contain chainstore izakaya than fine dining.  Still, upon entering, the restaurant feels like an Italian trattoria adorned with wine bottles, posters with Italian writing, Ducatti paraphernalia, and freeform jazz playing at a volume that encourages jovial conversation.

While Icaro does offer a course menu, the server actually recommended we choose from the a la carte options to ensure we get something we actually want to eat.  He said the dishes are sized to share and recommended 4 to 5 items between the two of us.  All the choices sounded delicious, and we vacillated quite a bit.  Luckily, our server was kind enough to guid us through the more popular options on the menu.  In the end, we opted for two starters, two pastas, one meat dish, and dessert to share.

Besides the food, there is an extensive list of Italian wines to choose from, and everything is priced quite reasonably.  Bottles average 6-7000 yen, while food runs from 2000 yen to about 5800 yen.  All the food pictured below, a bottle of delicious red wine, two glasses of spumante, herb tea, and a generous pouring of grappa with dessert was exactly 30,000 yen.  Not bad at all.

The whole meal was delicious and I’d love to go back to Icaro to try some of their other options.  Fortunately, going back should be easy as it’s on my way back from work, it’s a very casual and open atmosphere, and it is simple to get a reservation through Open Table.   That said, reservations are highly recommended, as I did see one couple get turned away when we dined here on Friday night.

Let’s eat Icaro!



Ostu in Yoyogi (オストゥ 代々木公園)

Ostu, a Michelin-starred Italian restaurant located just across from Yoyogi Park on the Hachiman side, knows a thing or two about customer relationship management.  We had thoroughly enjoyed their very reasonably priced course menu two years ago, but for one reason or another (chalk it up to being spoiled for dining options in Tokyo), hadn’t been back since.  However, after receiving an email from Ostu outlining a campaign including 10% off the price of the meal AND a free glass of Franciacorta sparkling wine, we made a reservation right away.  Nice CRM indeed.

It was a great strategy on Ostu’s part, as they have seriously stepped up their game in the past two years.  Not that our first experience was negative (it was anything but), but this evening’s offerings seemed to tell us, “Look what you’ve been missing since you’ve been gone.”  To sweeten the deal even more, they were offering a supplement of white truffles at 2000 yen per 3 grams.  White truffles are only available for a month or two, so we obliged for 9 grams shaved over two dishes.

Hearty portions, simple, yet expertly prepared dishes that let the ingredients shine, delicious wines, perfectly attentive service, and extremely reasonable prices all make Ostu one of Tokyo’s best Italian options.  Given the deal mentioned above, we were able to fully enjoy everything Ostu has to offer and get out of there for well under 30,000 yen for the two of us.  It felt like we had found a real bargain.

Let’s eat Ostu!


The first of two dishes featuring the prized white truffles- a simple scrambled egg with plenty of butter.


Insalata di Autunno (Autumn salad) – Rabbit meat slowly cooked at 140 degrees C, autumn “grey” truffle, endive, fig, raising, and balsamic vinegar.


Porcini pie with brown butter sauce.  The crust was so light and flaky, the dish like a luxurious lasagna.  Delightful.


Bavettine pasta with crab and spicy tomato sauce.  It was so easy to pull all the crab meat out from the leg in one juicy piece.  I loved it.


Pumpkin and potato gnocchi with prosciutto ham crumbs in a cream and Italian cheese sauce.  The gnocchi were so soft.  Hearty and delicious.


The second white truffle dish- a very simple butter sauce pasta.  This came covered, and when the waiter lifted the lid, a deep, rich scent of the truffle wafted over the table.  So nice.


Rack of Icelandic lamb flavored with thyme, vinegar, the meat’s natural juices, and the charcoal grill.


Usually one must pick between dessert and cheese.  For 1000 yen extra, we got both.  L to R – garganzola, a hard sheep’s milk cheese, and a soft cow cheese, served with a fig crostini and a loquat flower jam.


A crepe made of chestnut powder with a vanilla gelato, hazelnut and chocolate creme, and candied figs.  DIVINE!


Petit fours with coffee/tea.  A corn cookie, a hozuki cherry dipped in chocolate, and fresh cream meringue.  A sweet, fantastic finish.

Casa Vinitalia in Azabu Juban (カーザ ヴィニタリア)

As an early birthday celebration to me, we wanted to go somewhere nice to eat.  We love Tokyo’s selection of fine Italian restaurants because they are delicious, fairly simply, usually do not rely on heavy butter or cream, and are some of the most affordable Michelin-starred options in the city.

On this occasion, we chose Casa Vinitalia, an establishment in Azabu Juban (or 15 minute walk from Hiro Station) that’s fairly easy to find thanks to its location near a major intersection.  Upon entering this elegantly simple restaurant, it is immediately apparent that they focus a great deal of attention on their wine selection.  Wine bottles adorn the staircase used to access the main dining room, are used as decoration all around the restaurant, and the wine bottle is a thick, binded book of sorts.  We are by no means wine experts, so the staff were very accommodating in serving us wine by the glass based on our amateurish preferences (“Not too dry,” “Something fruity,” etc.).

Casa Vinitalia’s interior is beautiful in it’s white and sea green simplicity.  Every table in the main dining room centers around an open patio with lots of greenery.  Though we visited on a sweltering summer day, there is plenty of air conditioning in the open room to feel comfortable, while still enjoying the view.  It feels as if you’ve stepped out of Tokyo and into a coastal Italian restaurant for a couple hours.

The food offers some of the best cost performance I’ve experienced in Tokyo’s fine dining options.  For 8100 yen INCLUDING tax and service charge, the course menu is long and very generously portioned.  The course menu is, however, not a set menu.  Every customer is given plenty of options to design the course that best suits their preferences.  Indeed, from a choice of sauces for the starting bagna cauda to the number of grams for the final,”simple” pasta before dessert (30, 60, or 100 grams), there are so many options that it actually gets kind of confusing.  Sometimes it’s nicer to just sit back and let the chef make these kinds of decisions.  Still, the warm staff is more than willing to help in choices.

After plenty of drinks, a supplement of bagna cauda sauce, and with very stuffed bellies, we walked out having paid far less than 25,000 yen.  Highly recommended.

Let’s eat Casa Vinitalia!


I really loved the interior of the restaurant.  Here, you can see the open patio.


Olives provided for munching while musing over the menu food and drink options.


Various breads.  Enjoy them on their own or dip them in the amazing bagna cauda.


All the course menus start with the specialty bagna cauda.  We chose the gorgonzola cheese sauce.  Accompanied with a bouquet of fresh, seasonal vegetables.


Doing the dip.


The first starter – tachiuo (scabbard fish) carpaccio with a caper olive oil and herb sauce.


Starter 2 (before plating) – sumibiyaki iwashi, or sardine cooked over coal.



The plated sardine. Perfectly cooked and so juicy.  Squeeze the sudachi over the fish for a nice citrus kick.


We opted for a supplementary refill of bagna cauda sauce- here is the standard anchovy-based dip with olive oil and butter.


Ayu risotto (sweetfish) featured a generous helping of dill, zucchini, and string beans.



Kinka pork.  Rare, juicy, and delicious.  Served with its own fat and a mustard-based salsa verde.


Potatoes served with the pork.  We loved how much this restaurant uses Staub cookware.


The final savory dish is a “simple pasta.”  We chose 60 grams of spaghetti and the spicy tomato sauce.  It had a nice zing and the homemade noodles were cooked perfectly.


My dessert was white peach with a white wine sorbet.


Cassata- an Italian ice-cream cake with various fruits and a passion fruit sauce.  I preferred this dessert.


Petit fours featured a lemon caramel with apricot, a whipped cream meringue, and a brandy-infused ganache.


Shakerato- an espresso shaken with ice with grappa liquor.  I absolutely loved this both in terms of taste and the presentation.  Excuse the dirty table in this photo.  I spilled a bit of bagna cauda!



Da Olmo(ダ オルモ、神谷町)

I work in Kamiyacho, a business district in central Tokyo.  I was browsing through the Michelin guide to see if there were any restaurants in this area, and was happy to find Da Olmo, a one-star Italian restaurant featuring simple, yet beautifully prepared dishes from Northern Italy.  In 2015, Da Olmo was listed as a “Bib Gourmand” restaurant, but was promoted to one star in the 2016 guide.  I knew I had to go.

At 7000 yen for the dinner course, this is one of the best values for a Michelin-starred restaurant in Tokyo.  Wine starts at 800 yen a glass, making it easy to enjoy a fantastic, authentic Italian meal for two with plenty of drinks for under 25,000 yen.  We let the staff choose the wine to pair with each dish.  All I told them was I don’t like anything too dry, and they were able to pick delicious wines that went perfectly with every dish, every time.

Attentive and friendly service, a knowledgeable sommelier, and a boisterous (but never obnoxious) atmosphere round out Da Olmo as a real winner.

Hidden on a side-street in an area of Tokyo that is somewhat deserted on the weekends, this restaurant feels like an undiscovered gem.  Highly recommended for any occasion.

Let’s eat Da Olmo!


Bread was served warm with our glass of prosecco.


Appetizer plate.  From the bottom, R to L – carpaccio, fried gori fish, mackerel, spicy anzu beans in a tomato sauce, smoked duck (amazing), and a “cake” made from soba flour, milk, and ham.


Tai (red snapper) and fresh tomato pasta.


The highlight of the meal- risotto with loads of parmesan topped with a generous portion of shaved black truffles. I’d go back for this dish alone.


Main option one- duck served rare with seasonal vegetables, all expertly prepared and delicious.


Main option two- Que fish (longtooth grouper) served with its scaled fried like a senbei cracker. Same vegetables as the duck. I preferred the fish, Midori preferred the duck.


A cheese plate featuring Danish, French, and Belgian cheeses. Perfect with the bread.


Rum raisin ice cream, panna cotta topped with kinkan (Japanese kumquat), and hazelnut cake. A great finish with my cappuccino.